Mauritius and Reunion - Two Islands in the western Indian Ocean

Mauritius is less developed and commercialised than Reunion and is more relaxed and casual. Reunion is a department of France and hence, a member of the European Union so it suffers from more rules and regulations than Mauritius, although it benefits from greater investment and grants from the EU. Mauritius has influences from India, Africa, Madagascar & Europe. English is the official language taught at schools but most people are fluent in Creole & French with English being the less natural language. French is the native language in Reunion with a lower percentage of the population speaking English. (click on any photo in the website to see larger versions and slideshows) www.novatravels.net

Mauritius Mauritius has no active volcanoes, although remnants of volcanic activity - such as the Trou aux Cerfs crater in Curepipe and millions of lava boulders – scatter the island. Mauritius is renowned for having been the only known home of the extinct dodo.                    more info..  

Food & Drink Mauritian food is derived from Creole, French, Chinese and Indian traditions. The island is blessed with fertile soil, so the local produce is excellent – from super- sized vegetables to sweet fruits. more info..

Festivals Mauritian festivals are of religious origins but some of the religious festivals have become national ones. Mauritians are generally very religious people and the festivals are often celebrated with much devotion. more info..  

Mauritius is in the Indian Ocean, off the coast of Africa, roughly 800km/500m east of Madagascar. It measures 58km/36m from north to south and 47km/29m from west to east. As a country, it includes the inhabited island of Rodrigues, some 560km/350m to the north-east, and other scattered coral atolls such as Cargados Carajos and Agalega. Of volcanic origin and generally sheltered by barriers of coral reefs forming natural, safe, crystal clear lagoons, Mauritius has long been a dream destination. Known to the Arabs as early as the 10th century, but officially  ‘discovered’ in 1505 by the Portuguese navigator Pedro Mascarenhas, the island was occupied successively by the Dutch (1598-1712) and the French (1715-1810), and was ceded to Great Britain in 1814 through the Treaty of Paris. On 12 March 1968, Mauritius became Independent with Republic Day being proclaimed on 12 March 1992. Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam was the first post-independence Prime Minister of Mauritius and often referred to as the “Father of the Nation”. Mauritius is surrounded by a coral reef and lined with long stretches of white sandy beaches. The reef is broken in several places, with the largest break evident in the pounding surf along the black cliffs between Souillac and Le Bouchon on the southern coast. A smaller, less spectacular break occurs at Flic en Flac on the west coast. This reef has protected Mauritius from potential damage from tsunamis. The population is 1.2 million. Although lying alongside eastern Africa, Mauritius is more influenced by its British, French and Indian ties than by the African mainland. English is the official language of the island (taught in the schools), although Creole and French are the main languages in the everyday environment. There is also a smattering of Indian languages. Most people in Mauritius are bilingual and are equally fluent in English and French. Mauritius uses the British driving system (driving on the left) and has mainly English type plugs. Mauritius has thriving sugar and textile industries. Tea and a ground coffee drink called coffee chamarel is grown on the island. Medical standards on Mauritius are high and hospitals are free for visitors. There are also many highly modern private clinics on the island, though these are not free and so health insurance is recommended. The local water is treated and clean and the Mauritians drink it but visitors should only use it for cleaning their teeth etc. Weather 20 degrees south of the equator, Mauritius has a microclimate - so it can be raining where you are, with the sun shining five minutes away. In the peak season summer months (November to April) the temperature varies from 20°C to 28°C on the Central Plateau and from 25°C to 33°C on the coast. In winter (May to October), the average temperature is 19°C in the centre of the island and 24°C on the coast, with fewer mosquitoes and hotel rates that drop by 30-50 per cent. The sea temperature is 27°C in summer and 22°C in winter. Getting around Mauritius may be small, but travelling takes time. One to two-hour drives between hotels and the attractions are not uncommon, as apart from one major highway which goes from the airport to Grand Baie in the north, roads are generally narrow and winding. Buses go everywhere apart from the uninhabited Plaine Champagne, but as travelling this way is time-consuming and a bit unpredictable, and taxis, excursions and petrol are relatively cheap, visitors rarely use them. Self-drive is a popular, reasonably safe and flexible way to tour the island. Driving is on the left and roads often have no pavements, so people and dogs step in your way, expecially on a Sunday evening when people have been to beach barbeques and have been drinking. We hired the services of a taxi/guide which are more comfortable and far cheaper than car rental. We can fully recommend Willy - booking@taximauritiustours.com  +230  5777-0256 (he arranged our airport transfers and two full days car tour - all of our drivers were excellent).

Paille en queue - emblem of Reunion

Mauritius offers a magnificent mixture of cuisines. The most common varieties are Créole, European, Chinese and Indian, with seafood almost always the speciality. Depending on the region, rice or a variety of flat bread called chapattis or roti, called farata (paratha) by the local people, is eaten with curries, rougaille (tomatoes and onion sautéed with thyme, garlic, ginger and chilli), fracassee or moulouktani (curried soup made with small crabs and pieces of meat) and side dishes such as bredes (a type of spinach), chutneys and pickles. Dholl puri and roti, originally an Indian delicacy have become the fish and chips of Mauritians. Dholl puris  - Indian immigrants to Mauritius couldn’t get the ingredients to make the bread on the island, and their substitute, a fried thin bread stuffed with ground yellow split peas, and served in a pair with bean curry, atchar and chutney. Roti chaud (hot roti). This is a roti (a flat Indian bread) served with various curries, chutneys and pickles, usually from the back of a motorbike or a street food stall. Rougaille is a popular Creole dish – a kind of tomato stew –  made with meat or fish, tomatoes, garlic, onion, and thyme. Palm Heart Salad - Also known as ‘Millionaire’s Salad’, this is a Mauritian delicacy. Palm trees grow for about seven years and then are cut down to extract the ‘heart’ – an arm-sized inner tube of the tree, which feeds around three people as a starter. This is then sliced finely and eaten raw in a salad with smoked marlin and other goodies, or cooked in a sauce. (not very environmentally friendly!)

Mauritian curry has quite a different flavour to Indian, although the base is similar – there’s garlic, onion, fresh curry leaves and turmeric. It is much milder. The extensive use of spices like saffron, cinnamon, cardamom, and cloves and herbs like thyme, basil, and curry leaves are the common ingredients that provide some powerful, yet subtle, flavour.   

Vanilla Tea Phoenix beer - costs around 30 rupees (less than one pound sterling) for a pint. The local Black Eagle beer is brewed in Nouvelle France. Rum - Mauritius produces a wide range of cane rum. It is very cheap and is a nice drink when mixed with something such as Cola. There are three distilleries on the island that produce agricole rum, which is rum made the proper way, from sugar cane juice instead of molasses. You can buy many flavoured agricole rums such as coffee and orange, coconut, vanilla and coffee, and lemon grass. While Mauritian rum isn’t up to the standard of Reunion island or the Caribbean, it is pretty good. Ti Rum Punch - Short for ‘petit rum punch’, this is drunk all over the island, with different ingredients added in to a base of rum and sugar syrup. Rhum Arrangé is a white rum flavoured with a melange of flavours. It can really be anything: from herbs, to fruits, to vanilla, and even spices or a combination / mixture of those. You can easily buy ready made packs of the ‘arrangé’ to add to your rum. It should be left in the bottle for one month to infuse. Coconut water,  especially good with a dash of lime and some local rum over ice. Alouda is a pinka syrupy brew of agar and milk flavoured with a syrup. Lassi is a refreshing yoghurt and ice-water drink Chamarel coffee

During the Maha Shivaratri (also called 'the great night of Shiva' ) most of the devotees leave their homes and start a journey to Grand Bassin on bare-foot. It has been a tradition that volunteer people offer foods and drinks to the pilgrims. Generally held in February, the pilgrims dressed in white proceed to Grand Bassin carrying bamboo contraption on their shoulders as a sign of sacrifice. Normally, over 70,000 take the pilgrimage for which the roads have been widened and become a huge pedestrian walkway. Origins of the Maha Shivratri - In 1897 Shri Jhummon Giri Gosagne Napal, a ‘pujari’ (priest) of Triolet together with a 'pujari' priest from Goodlands Sri Mohanparsad saw in a dream the water of the lake of Grand Bassin springing from the ‘Jahnvi’, thus forming part of Ganga. The news of the dream spread rapidly and created quite a stir in the Hindu community. The following year, pilgrims trekked to Grand Bassin to collect its water to offer to Lord Shiva on the occasion of Maha Shivaratri. The lake was then known as the ‘Pari Talao’,

Mauritius is a blend of diverse cultures and religions which the immigrant population brought from their ancestral countries. Their festivities are celebrated in a spirit of peace and harmony throughout the year. Ganga Talao (also known as Grand Bassin) is a crater lake about 1800 feet above sea level in a secluded mountain area deep in the heart of Mauritius. No one knows the depth of Ganga Talao lake. It is considered the most sacred Hindu place in Mauritius. There is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and other Gods including Hanuman, Lakshmi, and others along the Grand Bassin. This 33m/108ft tall Hindu God, standing with his trident at the entrance of Ganga Talao, is a faithful copy of the Shiva statue of Sursagar lake in Vadodara, Gujarat, India. It was inaugurated in 2007 and the "Sthapan" was done during the Maha Shivratri period of 2008. It is also the highest known statue in Mauritius. In construction there was a statue of Durga Maa Bhavani with a lion of 33m /108ft.

Ugadi or Ougadi is celebrated mostly by the ‘Telegus’ community in Mauritius or people originated from Andhra Pradesh and Maharashtra It marks the beginning of a new Hindu lunar calendar with a change in the moon’s orbit. It is a day when mantras are chanted and predictions made for the New Year. This occurred during our visit on 31st March, 2014

Thought to be the last resting place of the dodo, Ile aux Aigrettes is a tiny coral island (25 hectares) just off the coast of the town of Mahebourg. The island has been declared a nature conservation site and is being preserved by the Mauritian Wildlife Foundation.  More info..

This tiny coral outcrop, has giant Aldabra tortoises meandering along under an ebony canopy and pink pigeons living in the semi-wild. Owing to the remarkable work accomplished by the Mauritius Wildlife Fund, the island has become an international standard for the protection of natural resources and endangered species. A few of the world’s rarest species, including the extremely rare Pink Pigeon, the Green Gecko Phelsuma, the Kestrel, the Olive White-eye, Mauritius fody, Ornate day gekko and Telfair skink can be seen here. (They breed the native Fruit bats and Aldabra Giant tortoises). A standard trip (1.5 hours) costs 800 rupees (£16) each but you can have an extended tour of about 2.5 hours and meet with the project staff for 3000 MUR (£30) Go early to see birds at their most active.

See a wide variety of palm trees and gigantic Queen Victoria water lilies sourced from Amazonia (unfortunately, these have suffered because some snails  were treated with insecticides that also killed off the algae, which the water lilies rely upon for their survival), rare native plants and giant tortoises. (there are no maps for visitors so it is better to pay for a guide at the gate - 50MUR pp)   more info & gallery

Most people come to 'Por Loowee', Mauritius's capital, to shop, although it has several cultural attractions. The Blue Penny Museum is home to the world's first colonial stamp and you can see an ancient dodo skeleton, on the first floor of The Natural History Museum. Visitors can get a sense of multifaith Mauritius by gazing over churches, mosques, and Chinese and Indian temples from the Citadel, or take a stroll up Signal Mountain - named after the antennae on top - to see the city at sunset. Mauritius has been a duty free shopping haven since 2010 and the Caudan Waterfront offers many duty-free shops.

An 19thC Italian neo-classical architecture. Walk through sweetly scented exotic flowers and tropical fruit trees; some 100 years old, but beware of the mosquitoes even with repellant! Finish at the Rhumerie des Mascareignes for a rum tasting.

Reputedly, one of the most beautiful beaches in Mauritius and as such, it is overcrowded and commercialised. Boats depart regularly from Trou-d'Eau Douce village, some serving food (usually barbecue) on board and tend to take a detour to the Grand River - Trou-d'Eau Douce waterfalls for a visit.

The Falls of Trou d'Eau Douce are black basalt rock formed by rapid cooling of lava. The water flow changes depending on the rains.

Ramgoolam Royal Botanical Gardens, Pamplemousses The gardens, named after Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam, the first prime minister of independent Mauritius, were started by Mahé de Labourdonnais in 1735 as a vegetable plot for his Mon Plaisir Château. The landscape came into its own in 1768 under the auspices of the French horticulturalist Pierre Poivre who imported seeds from around the world in a bid to end France's dependence on Asian spices. The gardens were neglected between 1810 and 1849 until British horticulturalist James Duncan transformed them into an arboretum for palms and other tropical trees. Palms still constitute the most important part of the horticultural display, and they come in an astonishing variety of shapes and forms. There are many other curious tree species on display, including the marmalade box tree, the fish poison tree and the sausage tree. The centrepiece of the gardens is a pond filled with giant Victoria amazonica water lilies, native to South America. The flowers in the centre of the huge leaves open white one day and close red the next. The lilies are at their biggest and best in the warm summer months, notably January. Other highlights are the abundant birdlife, captive populations of deer and the giant aldabra tortoises near the park's northern exit, close to the chateau.

Uncovered in 1998 by a farmer is the 23 coloured earth dating back to millions of years following the eruption of the Bassin Blanc volcano. There’s a range of natural landscapes including plateaus, mountains, valleys, three natural waterfalls, craters and crater-lakes and breath- taking panoramic views of the South Coast. The park is home to many wildlife - tortoises, monkeys, stags, fish and many birds.

An undulating landscape of 7 different and contrasting shades of colours. The different shades of blue, green, red and yellow are apparently created by volcanic rocks that cooled at different temperatures and the erosion of the volcanic ash. The neighbouring waterfalls of Chamarel rise from the moors with a dramatic drop into the canyon below.

An extinct crater 85m (280ft) deep and more than 180m (600ft) wide, now covered in lush vegetation. There are extensive views of the island from its rim.

Curepipe is the centre for manufacture and duty free shopping. We visited two factories that made model ships and saw how they were being made.

The Tamarin Falls are awkward to reach, but no doubt, it's worth the effort. On the Interior of the island they are an string of about 7 waterfalls surrounded by green mountains , tucked away beyond a sugar cane field. There are numerous pools beneath certain falls or a swim. Reputedly, one of the most beautiful and calmest places in Mauritius, and one of the best places for nature and animals lovers, and for finding exotic plants and birds. We viewed the falls from a distant viewpoint.

Highly recommended for its spectacular scenery, waterfalls, native plants and some of the rarest bird species. This national park of 6,574 hectares was created in 1994 for the protection of Mauritius’ remaining native forests. There are many macaque monkeys  and some glimpses of the elegant white Paille-en-queue (straw in the tail) flying over the canopy in the forested hills. There are many hiking trails and an easy two hour walk (9km) on a forest track from Petrin Information Centre will take you to the peak itself - the highest point on the island.

Situated in the Rivière Noire district, the bird park stretches over 25 hectares and contains an impressive collection of more than 140 bird species from all five continents as well as deer, tortoises, kangaroos, tigers, monkeys, various fishponds and orchids.   more info & gallery

Ganga Talao (Grand Bassin) - Within the crater of an extinct volcano, this natural lake is the most sacred place for Mauritian Hindus.   More

Ramgoolam Royal Botanical Gardens, Pamplemousses The gardens, named after Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam, the first prime minister of independent Mauritius, were started by Mahé de Labourdonnais in 1735 as a vegetable plot for his Mon Plaisir Château. The landscape came into its own in 1768 under the auspices of the French horticulturalist Pierre Poivre who imported seeds from around the world in a bid to end France's dependence on Asian spices. The gardens were neglected between 1810 and 1849 until British horticulturalist James Duncan transformed them into an arboretum for palms and other tropical trees. Palms still constitute the most important part of the horticultural display, and they come in an astonishing variety of shapes and forms. There are many other curious tree species on display, including the marmalade box tree, the fish poison tree and the sausage tree. The centrepiece of the gardens is a pond filled with giant Victoria amazonica water lilies, native to South America. The flowers in the centre of the huge leaves open white one day and close red the next. The lilies are at their biggest and best in the warm summer months, notably January. Other highlights are the abundant birdlife, captive populations of deer and the giant aldabra tortoises near the park's northern exit, close to the chateau.

We went on a ‘day’ of activity  (7.30am to 2.30pm); swimming with dolphins in the sea (2.5 hours), snorkelling, visit the Crystal Rock with an excellent view of the le Morne Mountain en route to a delicious lunch on the Island of Benitiers.  (The cost was €65 per person) The ‘swimming with the dolphins’ trips in Tamarin Bay are very popular but we left feeling that the dolphins are rather pestered – however, they do return to the bay every day so perhaps they think it’s a game too!  Before we arrived at the dolphin site we were briefed on the types of dolphin, their habits and guidelines for sustainable dolphin watching. However, whilst we were there, we were one of 26 boats!  Someone spots the dolphins and all boats turn to get ahead of them so that the ‘swimmers’ can get into the water be with the dolphins as they pass. On our boat, 2 people would accompany our ‘guide’ in the water, whilst the others remained on board. From some boats, all ‘swimmers’ would jump in. In was a bit of a frenzie! Having said that – some get a close up lifetime experience, others just swim and see the dolphins deep below them and those that stay on board wonder if this is simply a dolphin chase!  I was fortunate enough to have two ‘swims’ – the first only seeing 3 dolphins in the deep sea below and the second, 7 dolphins nose-dived in front of me to join their pod further below (21 dolphins in the pod). (We think that the number of boats or swimmers, should be time restricted so that there are only so many there at a time to prevent this ‘overcrowding’ which will benefit both the dolphins and the ‘swimmers’.)

Dolphins are one of the most amazing creatures that live in the ocean. They are - cheerful and playful a symbol of intelligence and grace. The Bottlenose Dolphin and the Spinner Dolphin live in pods of around 20 individuals or more and have made the West Coast of Mauritius a place for them to rest and sleep before going to the deep sea for their fishing. The Bottlenose Dolphin is one of the most common and well-known dolphins. They are Grey in color and can be between 2 and 4 meters (6.6 and 13 ft) long, and weigh between 150 and 650 kilograms (330 and 1,400 lb). Bottlenose Dolphins live in groups called pods that typically are of 15 dolphins, but it is also possible to find groups of over 100 or even occasionally over 1000 dolphins. Their diet consists mainly of small fish. The Spinner Dolphin is dark grey, with darker patches in the tail stock, back and throat. Usually it has creamy-white patch on the belly though this varies considerably. The beak is distinctively long and thin, with a dark tip. The fins too are lengthy for dolphins of this size. Adults have varied in size from 129 cm to 235 cm and weight from 23 kg to 78 kg. The gestation period is 10 months. Individuals reach maturity at 4-7 years (females) and 7-10 years (males). Longevity is unknown. Spinners congregate in groups that vary from just a few dolphins to great schools numbering in the thousands.

Born 3 million years ago, Reunion is one of the youngest islands in the world. It first broke the surface of the Indian Ocean less than three million years ago, and still has a highly mountainous relief with continued volcanic activity today. It’s an island of astonishing scenery with the three enormous ‘cirques’ (natural amphitheatres) of Cilaos, Salazie and Mafate, the deep valleys hewn into the volcanic slopes by the island’s main rivers, and the upper plains dotted with peaks. A flight across the island by helicopter is simply breath-taking. The island’s highest point is the Piton des Neiges at 3070m. Its last volcanic eruptions were 16,000 years ago. Its younger counterpart, the Piton de la Fournaise (2632 m), appeared 300,000 years ago, and is one of the most active volcanoes in the world. Because it is what they call an ‘effusive’ volcano, its eruptions remain relatively safe. Sometimes, these lava flows reach the sea, creating enormous clouds of steam and even redefining the island’s coastline. Lava from la Fournaise rarely comes close to any residential areas, and highly sensitive captors warn of any imminent eruptions in good time. The 210km of coastline is made up of cliffs and rocky beaches eroded by the waves. But there is a total of 35 km of sandy beaches running from the west to the south of the island. Places such as Grand’Anse, Saint-Pierre, Saint-Leu, Saint-Gilles (La Saline, l'Hermitage) all benefit from coral barriers forming shallow lagoons.

In 1841, a young slave by the name of Edmond Albius, invented a process of artificial insemination of the vanilla plant. Bourbon vanilla soon became the very best in the world. This production still exists today. Highly reputed essential oils come from the distillation of geranium and vetiver up in the hills of St Pauls in the Petite France area.

It was first called Dina Morghabine by the Arabs, and then Bourbon Island by the French, but it wasn’t until 1794 that the name of Reunion was adopted for the first time, in reference to a coming- together of the States General forces following the revolution. In 1803, it was renamed Bonaparte Island and then Bourbon once again in 1814 after five years of British rule. And finally in 1848, the name changed back to Reunion Island for the last time.

Arab, Portuguese, British and Dutch sailors had all been aware of Reunion for some time, stopping merely to replenish water and food stores, but several Frenchmen started to settle there accompanied by their servants from Madagascar, including some women. The first children born in Reunion all, therefore, had some Malagasy blood. As of 1715, the East India Trading Company took over the responsibility of running the island and, up until 1767, organised coffee bean cultivation, a produce which required a very large workforce. A social system of slavery was put in place and the coffee plantations covered most of the island’s hillsides, right up to the beginning of the 19th century. Clover and nutmeg trees were also introduced successfully. A real industrial revolution kicked off in 1815 with the beginnings of sugar cane cultivation, and this soon ousted coffee production around the coastal areas. The sugar industry managed to pass the tests of time and remains today the agricultural pillar of island economy. In 1848, slavery was abolished. Former slaves and slave owners found it difficult to work in harmony, and labour was sought after overseas. Many of the workers "drafted" in large numbers from India would end up staying in Reunion. When France colonised Madagascar in 1895, Reunion was left by the wayside somewhat, and for several decades lived in the shadow of its imposing neighbour. But in 1946, when the island became an Overseas Department of France, Reunion began to benefit from considerable public investment. This continued progressively and explains the island’s modern and developed infrastructure today. Reunion is also a region of the European Union in itself, even though Brussels is 10,000 km away.

Cirques and volcanos by Helicopter Our first trip was a 25 minute helicopter flight over the breathtaking pitons, cirques (circles of mountains surrounding ancient volcanic valleys) and waterfalls of the island, some inaccessible by land. (It was so stunning that we decided to do a 2nd more extended flight to include the active volcano in the south east of the island). We headed west over Saint Paul. The Saint Alexis ship arrived in Saint Paul on June 29th 1638 and the town was named after this special holy day. In 1738 Saint Paul was replaced by Saint Denis as the capital. There is an open air craft market every Friday on the water front and in the ‘pirate’s cemetery’. Turning east between 300m and 1000m we flew over sugar cane crops and above 1000m this was replaced by geranium plants whose oil is distilled and sold to the cosmetic and perfume industries. Mafate is a wild and isolated ‘cirque’ housing 10 different villages (called ‘islet’) with more than 700 permanent residents who use the helicopter to reach the coast to do their errands (shopping, doctor, etc). Mafate was named after a former slave who escaped to the mountains during the 18th century. Mafate is known for its natural environment and over 180 kilometers of hiking trails. Salazie is the most picturesque cirque of the mountains with many waterfalls, the most famous being ‘Voile de la mariee’ (the bride’s gown) and the spectacular ‘Trou de fer’ waterfall and wild canyon that can only be seen by helicopter. The Piton de la Fournaise is the second most active volcano in the world. Inside the ‘enclosure’ is the Bory and the Dolomieu craters which culminate in over 2600 meters. The eruptions usually occur inside the inclosure except the ones in 1977, 1986, 2001 and 2004 where the lava flow reached the sea and increased the size of the island. Cilaos is famous because of its thermal water. Since 1896 people have come from all around the island to go to the spa. This cirque is known for its fine wine, lentils and handcrafted embroidery. Returning to the coast we passed over Saint Giles, with more than 25 kilometers of coral reef. This is the area of our hotel.

Paille en queue - emblem of Reunion

Plaine des Cafres - Located between the two mountain ranges of Piton des Neiges and Piton de la Fournaise, the Plaine des Cafres is separated from the commune of La Plaine-des-Palmistes by the col de Bellevue, a mountain pass culminating at 1630m. It is named after the Cafres, black slaves who hid in the area during and before the 18th century. The Rivière des Remparts is a river that flows south from the slopes of the Piton des Songes, in a deep caldera along the Piton de la Fournaise, reaching the sea at the town of Saint-Joseph. Nez de Boeuf is a huge canyon on the Rivière des Remparts caused by the collapse of the volcano’s summit. It is 2,136m high. Cap Méchant (Cape Wicked) - On the south west coast of Saint-Philippe, the site offers an exceptional landscape. The small kiosks under Les Filaos enable the visitor to see the cliffs of washed black charcoal colour,  which were formed by the lava flows that plunge into the sea. Piton de la Fournaise - The massive Piton de la Fournaise basaltic shield volcano is one of the world's most active volcanoes. It is often known locally as le Volcan (The Volcano).  Much of its >530,000 year history overlapped with eruptions of the deeply dissected Piton des Neiges shield volcano to the NW. Three calderas formed at about 250,000, 65,000, and less than 5000 years ago by progressive eastward slumping of the volcano. Numerous pyroclastic cones dot the floor of the calderas and their outer flanks. Most historical eruptions have originated from the summit and flanks of Dolomieu, a 400-m-high lava shield that has grown within the youngest caldera, which is 8 km wide and breached to below sea level on the eastern side. More than 150 eruptions, most of which have produced fluid basaltic lava flows, have occurred since the 17th century. Only six eruptions, in 1708, 1774, 1776, 1800, 1977, and 1986, have originated from fissures on the outer flanks of the caldera. The Dolomieu crater is one of the two volcanic craters of the Piton of the Furnace accompanied by the crater Bory. Formed in 1791, it collapsed suddenly during the eruption in April 2007 while it was completely filled with lava flows. The tower of the Dolomieu crater is prohibited since its collapse in 2007, because of the fragility of its walls but a point of observation on the crater has been arranged. A previous eruption began in August 2006 and ended in January 2007. The volcano erupted again in February 2007, and on 21 September 2008. Most recently, an eruption occurred on 9 December 2010 and lasted for two days.

Volcano & Wild South by 4WD After an early breakfast, we departed by 4WD to the dramatic Piton de la Fournaise, one of the most active volcanoes in the world that covers a third of the island’s area.  En route to the volcano, there are numerous viewpoints to enjoy including the cattle breeding area of Plaine des Cafres and the stunning panoramas of Nez de Boeuf; a huge canyon on the Rivière des Remparts caused by the collapse of the volcano’s summit and a vast area of volcanic soil that looks like the surface of another planet. We journeyed across the beautiful landscapes of the wild south crossing rivers of lava flow and passing through authentic Creole villages,. We stopped at the village of Piton-Saint-Rose which was evacuated in 1977 before it was inundated by a lava flow which destroyed several buildings. The lava flow crossed the highway and surrounded the local church, entered the front door, then stopped without destroying the building. The front entrance was later cleared out, and the church was brought back into service under the name of  Notre-Dame des Laves (Our Lady of the Lavas). Finally, we went off-road through a wild botanic gardens to a guesthouse where we enjoyed a wonderful lunch with flavoured rum flowing freely.

Our last day - out in a pedal boat and un- beknown to us our waterproof bag with water camera, water bottle and room key fell overboard. We searched for over an hour without success before all boats were called in for the day. We had 2 hours before departure home so decided to go for a last snorkel in a different part of the reef - and I found it! We think it had drifted with the under- current and fortunately got caught on  some stags horn corel. What an amazing end to our holiday!

I watched a fish grab another fish. After about 10 minutes of holding it in its mouth, the big fish had clearly suffocated the smaller fish and spat it out ready to eat - but a waiting crab immediately snatched the meal and scurried away - it’s hard being a Fisher!  (click on the photos to see larger versions)

There are many water activities inside the safety of the reef - sailing, windsurfing, kitesurfing, kayaks, pedal boats, etc. I started to learn how to sail and was given 5 minutes of instruction and told to go out and learn as I go along!  It’s the perfect place to learn - I was not worried about capsizing into the warm 28°C shallow water (2m).

March/April 2014 Fri 21 Flight AF1981 10.05 arr Paris 12.25  / AF980  16.20 arr 07.00 Mauritius Sat 22 arr 07.00   (Perskil Beach Resort, Penthouse suite, half board, 5 nights) Glass bottom boat with snorkelling to coral area Sun 23 Swim (aqua exercise), kayaking and snorkelling Mon 24 Hired Taxi driver for the day. ▪ Boat trip to Falls of Trou d'Eau Douce. Then stop at Ile aux Cerfs on the return. ▪ Ramgoolam Royal Botanical Gardens, Pamplemousses ▪ The Chateau de Labourdonnais and Orchards ▪ Port Louis for a walk around the harbour Tues 25 9.30 to Ile aux Aigrettes, Nature reserve on a coral island Bus to Biscuiterie H Rault, Late lunch at Les Copains D'abord (Bus return was a long wait at the bus station because the 3.30pm bus is school children only) Wed 26 Afternoon speedboat ride to the Fort and Lighthouse then over to Blue Bay to take a glass-bottom boat and snorkelling in the bay (a protected area). Thu 27 Snorkelling in the morning Flight MK238  15.30 arr 16.15 Reunion Island  (Lux Ile De La Reunion superior, half board, 4 nights) Fri 28 10am - 25 minute helicopter flight over the breathtaking pitons, cirques (ancient volcanic valleys) and waterfalls of the island, some inaccessible by land. Sat 29 7am - Volcano and Wild South tour on 4WD ▪ Stop at numerous viewpoints to enjoy the cattle breeding area of Plaine des Cafres, the stunning panoramas of Nez de Boeuf, a huge canyon on the Rivière des Remparts caused by the collapse of the volcano’s summit and the vast ash area that looks like a scene from another planet. ▪ See the dramatic Piton de la Fournaise, one of the most active volcanoes in the world covering a third of the island’s area. ▪ Drive across the beautiful landscapes of the wild south crossing rivers of lava flow and passing through authentic Creole villages. ▪ Savour an authentic Creole lunch at a local guesthouse ▪ See the lava tubes and volcanic rock in the south.  Sun 30   8am – 45minute helicopter tour – The 3 Cirques + Volcano Morning market at Ermitage Snorkelling in the afternoon. Mon 31 MK219  12.45 arr 13.30   (LUX* Le Morne  Prestige junior suite, half board, 6 nights) Ougadi which is a Hindu festival so it’s a public holiday today. Tues 1 Bike ride in the morning and snorkelling from a boat trip to the coral in the afternoon. Wed 2 Hired Taxi driver for the day.           ▪ La Vallee des Couleurs ▪ Black River Gorges National Park - Spectacular scenery, native plants and some of the rarest bird species. ▪ Ganga Talao (Grand Bassin) - Within the crater of an extinct volcano, this natural lake is the most sacred place for Mauritian Hindus. ▪ Tamarind Waterfalls viewpoint ▪ Mauritian lunch ▪ Trou aux Cerfs - a dramatic, extinct crater 85m (280ft) deep and more than 180m (600ft) wide – no walking trails into the crater. Extensive views of the island from its rim. ▪ Casela Bird Park - 140 bird species, deer, tortoises, kangaroos, tigers, monkeys and more. ▪ Chamarel – waterfalls and coloured earth, beautiful patterns created by volcanic rocks that cooled at different temperatures. Thu 3 Snorkelling in the afternoon. First sailing lesson and left to go out on my own! Fri 4 Pickup 6.45am  - 7.30 to 14.30 Swim with Dolphins, snorkel and lunch on L’Ile aux Benitiers Sat 5 Snorkelling and sailing Sun 6 Nature walk, Pedal boat, Snorkelling Flight AF983   21.55 arr 07.55 Mon 7 AF1980 10.05 arr 10.25

Perskil Beach Resort, Mauritius

Lux, Ile De La Reunion

Lux, Le Morne Mauritius

Hotel reviews

Perskil Beach Resort, Mauritius We enjoyed our stay in an excellent Penthouse suite (432). The room was large and well equipped with plenty of storage space and a lovely balcony that had excellent views over the beach and Lion Mountain – it was idyllic. The restaurant is like a large company canteen and we felt that it could do with a redesign to make it more intimate.  The buffet was mediocre but there was lots of it. We wanted to go into Mahebourg for dinner one evening but there is no flexibility to swap a dinner for a lunch – I guess that may be the same everywhere.  All staff were friendly and helpful The snorkelling was excellent right off the beach and also there was a daily glass bottom boat ride to the larger area of coral. We hired a boat to go to the lighthouse and Blue Bay and also hired a chauffeur taxi for the day to tour the north and east of the island (taximauritiustours – fully recommend them). Lux Ile De La Reunion We stayed for 4 nights before moving on to the Lux, Le Morne in Mauritius (special deal as we stayed at 2 Lux hotels). We had a prestige room (98) with a balcony on the first floor with views over the lawns and trees to the beach. The room was excellent but it lacked storage for clothes - there was too much wardrobe space so it would be much better if one side were made into shelves. The main restaurant, L’Orangine, was closed in the evenings whilst we were there so we ate in La Cuisine or La Plage. The food and service was excellent. Do try the Rum arrange in La Cuisine, carefully mixed by Vincent, (?) an excellent waiter. All the staff in the hotel were very friendly and helpful. The pool and beach are fabulous, although it was rather windy whilst we were there. We recommend that you take a helicopter ride over the cirques and volcano – it’s a truly awesome flight. We also did a day tour in a 4WD to the volcano. We walked to the weekly market in St Gilles which was most interesting. An excellent hotel. Lux, Le Morne Mauritius An excellent hotel on a beautiful lagoon, spoilt only by the loud music in the evenings. The Lux overlooks a beautiful shallow, clear, warm, blue lagoon protected by the coral reef, which is teeming with fish and coral. There are daily snorkelling trips to other coral areas. We stayed in a prestige junior suite which was excellent and roomy with plenty of storage space. It had a bathroom with and internal and external shower. The rooms were dark so a suggestion for the management would be to put some lighting under the TV shelf. The food is excellent and plentiful. We were on half board and ate at the buffet or the beach restaurants - full board would have been too much food and too many extra inches! (We hired a chauffeur taxi for a day tour (Omi at taximauritiustours – fully recommended) and purchased some lunch snacks from the excellent, large supermarket in La Gaulette on the way back.) We also went swimming with the dolphins but felt that they are harassed  by the many boats (26) and would have preferred an allocated time slot system of say, up to 8 boats at a time to prevent this happening to them. We enjoyed the free cycle and walking trips organised by the staff. The staff are charming and helpful but the cleaners are too meticulous in that everything had to be set out in a particular place after cleaning and the TV switched on!  We felt this is a waste of electricity and as we didn’t watch TV we put the remote controls on the DVD player out of our way but they were promptly returned to the bedside table every day. Our only real complaint was the loud, live music in the Bar that goes on from 9pm until 11pm. It seems unnecessary to have music every night as there were only a handful of people in the bar in the evening. If they must have it then the volume should be turned down. We chose this hotel for its quiet ambiance but were very disappointed by the music. We started in room a few away from the bar (161) and asked to move but the only option was the room next to the dining room (144) – it slightly shielded us from the music but we suffered from the clatter of the dishes at every meal. If you like peace and quiet – request a room away from the bar and dining area.

Perskil Beach Resort, Mauritius

Lux, Ile De La Reunion

Lux, Le Morne Mauritius