© Nova Fisher 2015
Hoanib River
The 270km Hoanib is one of the 12 ephemeral seasonal rivers in the west of Namibia. With the low population density, the oasis
character of the river valley and the relatively high wildlife population of Hoanib, together with the Hoarusib, the valley is one of the last
true wilderness areas in Namibia and one of the last settlements of desert elephants and lions. It has strong wind and water eroded
and weathered stone deposits (up to 10 m height).
The Landscape
This is a remote land of rugged scenery, inhabited by plant
and animal life that has adapted superbly to the harsh
environment of mountains, vast plains, dunes and dry
riverbeds. The northern sector in particular contains
everything from soaring sand dunes and plains, to deep
canyons, towering mountains, wide saltpans, huge seal
colonies and numerous shipwrecks, as well as some
interesting wildlife.
Freshwater springs and man-made boreholes dotted around
the barren sands create life-sustaining oases for small
pockets of wildlife in the middle of the desert. Hartmann’s
mountain zebra, gemsbok, desert-adapted elephant, brown
hyena, giraffe, black rhino and - occasionally – leopard and
cheetah may all be found in this wild and rugged landscape.
Due to its vast pristine nature, much of the region is only
accessible by light aircraft and the views from the air are
spectacular. Whilst there we learnt about the work of the
researchers, Doctor Philip Stader - conservation of the
desert lions and Doctors Laura and Rob - conservation of the
desert elephants. We saw the unusual, ancient two leaved
welwitschia plants (the oldest in the world), tracked wildlife,
and savoured the endless fascinating landscapes.
Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp
This camp stands on the Hoanib River - on a private
concession that straddles the Palmwag area and Skeleton
Coast National Park, in one of the Kaokoveld's most remote
areas. Due to the remoteness, stargazing was excellent.
Infact, everything about this camp was excellent - the luxury
accommodation, the staff, the wilderness, being so close to
animals that survive in such arid conditions, the researchers
and our wonderful guides (PapaG and Francois) who
enthused and cared so much for the animals and
environment.
We went on nature drives along the Hoanib River &
floodplains, to the Mudorib Spring and into the Palmwag
Concession, where we encountered some of the area’s
desert adapted species - lions, elephants, oryx, springbok,
giraffes and hyena. We took nature walks and, of course,
enjoyed the sundowners with awesome views and
wonderful sunsets.
We drove for 4 hours to the Skeleton Coast and were
surprised with a delicious lunch on the beach. We returned
by light aircraft which provided us with wonderful views of
the landscape.
After our sundowners we climbed the mountain to see our Hoanib Skeleton Coast Cmp in the valley below.
The dust from the desert created an amazing, eerie atmosphere.