North Korea

A journey like no other!

Appealing to my sense of adventure and curiosity, I visited North Korea as a solo traveller with an open mind and a little knowledge of their history. I was told by my guides that most visitors are Chinese or Asian with only about 1500 Western visitors a year. North Korea is like no other that I have visited in that you’re not free to explore or interact with the locals nor go to any local supermarkets or shops nor use the local currency. North Koreans are as friendly as they are allowed to be, but are aware that they must be positive about their lives and their leaders. My trip was clearly defined by their rules. I had a briefing the day before my departure which prepared me well for my trip. The briefing covered travel etiquette, guidelines, practicalities and safety for travel in the DPRK. I was also given my paper visa that they had obtained for me. Since the division in 1948 from South Korea, The Democratic People's Republic of Korea (DPRK) has been mostly a closed state. It is possible to visit through a few government- sanctioned tour agencies, but you’re not allowed to travel alone and you must stay on their set itinerary (although I was allowed to change my itinerary slightly prior to my travel to incorporate a trip north to Mount Myohyang and a visit to the Botanic Gardens in Pyongyang). Photography must show the country and the government in a positive light and must show the whole figure of the statues of leaders in a photo, without any crop. You must not photograph the military, farm workers or any construction sites. All visitors have to be accompanied by two guides, plus there is a local guide at the historic sites. I can’t help feeling that all of the guides were working to a prepared script. I was a solo traveller on a private tour so I found it quite intense. The guides walked very close by my side and often touched my arm when talking which was rather uncomfortable for me as an independent woman. The guides continually expressed their worship of the Kim family. Although, I was able to take more photos than I expected, it was difficult sometimes as the guides were so close by my side, obstructing me from moving to get a good angle for the photograph. I felt that it was not welcomed to stop the vehicle to take a photo. North Korea has a private intranet network which is not accessible to visitors. The worldwide internet is not available. Foreign mobile phones don’t work as there is no signal. A visit is rather unique as it gives an insight into a social system which went out of style with the fall of the Soviet Union. However, I had to listen to much propaganda, distortion of facts and claims to many inventions but departed having tolerated it without question for fear of being arrested! My stock answer was “Ohh, really!” When I returned home, I checked out a few things that had been told to me and it was fascinating to find out the true facts and reality of the country and its history. I have probably learned more about North Korea’s real history since I returned from the country!

Flight and customs at the

Pyongyang Sunan Airport

KoryoAir has a 5 kg hand luggage limit which is ignored. Many people had large, heavy suitcases which filled the overhead storage so they stored the excess suitcases in the aisles at the rear, infront of the emergency exit doors. On takeoff, people had trays down and they were not asked to stow them. The plane was very hot and my air was not working so I moved to the seats to the rear of the kitchen. They ran out of water and only had sweet strawberryade left. The meal is a chicken burger on all flights. At the Customs, visitors have to declare all goods such as iPhones, iPads, computers, cameras and books. iPhones are taken and put with your passport ready to be claimed once luggage has been checked. They requested to see my 2 books that I had declared and fortunately, they were acceptable (no travel or religious books are allowed). I met with my 2 Korean guides, a female and a male and a driver. They took my passport and visa which they retained until my departure at the airport. My passport was returned but they kept the paper visa. On exit there are 2 forms to complete. At the customs there was no need to take computers out of the luggage and I was able to go through with water in my luggage. The airport was empty apart from check in staff and military guards. I had arrived about 1 hour before the flight departure but most travellers arrived about 30 minutes before the flight.

My route took me from Pyongyang airport to Hyangsan, then Pyongyang, then a day trip to the Demilitarised Zone and Kaesong.

Unusual drinks

Left: London Strong soda turned out to be like a coca cola. Right: I was told this is an alcoholic drink made from the sap of oak trees. It tasted like a form of soju.

Click on any photo to see a slideshow of larger versions

North Korea

A journey like no other!

Appealing to my sense of adventure and curiosity, I visited North Korea as a solo traveller with an open mind and a little knowledge of their history. I was told by my guides that most visitors are Chinese or Asian with only about 1500 Western visitors a year. North Korea is like no other that I have visited in that you’re not free to explore or interact with the locals nor go to any local supermarkets or shops nor use the local currency. North Koreans are as friendly as they are allowed to be, but are aware that they must be positive about their lives and their leaders. My trip was clearly defined by their rules. I had a briefing the day before my departure which prepared me well for my trip. The briefing covered travel etiquette, guidelines, practicalities and safety for travel in the DPRK. I was also given my paper visa that they had obtained for me. Since the division in 1948 from South Korea, The Democratic People's Republic of Korea (DPRK) has been mostly a closed state. It is possible to visit through a few government-sanctioned tour agencies, but you’re not allowed to travel alone and you must stay on their set itinerary (although I was allowed to change my itinerary slightly prior to my travel to incorporate a trip north to Mount Myohyang and a visit to the Botanic Gardens in Pyongyang). Photography must show the country and the government in a positive light and must show the whole figure of the statues of leaders in a photo, without any crop. You must not photograph the military, farm workers or any construction sites. All visitors have to be accompanied by two guides, plus there is a local guide at the historic sites. I can’t help feeling that all of the guides were working to a prepared script. I was a solo traveller on a private tour so I found it quite intense. The guides walked very close by my side and often touched my arm when talking which was rather uncomfortable for me as an independent woman. The guides continually expressed their worship of the Kim family. Although, I was able to take more photos than I expected, it was difficult sometimes as the guides were so close by my side, obstructing me from moving to get a good angle for the photograph. I felt that it was not welcomed to stop the vehicle to take a photo. North Korea has a private intranet network which is not accessible to visitors. The worldwide internet is not available. Foreign mobile phones don’t work as there is no signal. A visit is rather unique as it gives an insight into a social system which went out of style with the fall of the Soviet Union. However, I had to listen to much propaganda, distortion of facts and claims to many inventions but departed having tolerated it without question for fear of being arrested! My stock answer was “Ohh, really!” When I returned home, I checked out a few things that had been told to me and it was fascinating to find out the true facts and reality of the country and its history. I have probably learned more about North Korea’s real history since I returned from the country!