The Baltics*
/Tallin
Tallinn Medieval Old Town. Built in the 15 to17th
centuries and excellently preserved. At the
heart of the city is the hill of Toompea, covered
in cobbled streets and filled with medieval
houses and alleyways. The lower town spreads
out from the foot of the hill and is still protected
by the remnants of a city wall. Tallinn is a
historic city dating back to the medieval times
and it was first recorded on a world map in
1154, although the first fortress was built on
Toompea in 1050. In 1219, the city was
conquered by Valdemar II of Denmark, but it
was soon sold to the Hanseatic League in 1285.
The city, known as Reval at the time, prospered
as a trading town in the 14th century, and much
of Tallinn's historic centre was built at this time.
Tallinn then became a pawn in the geopolitical
games of its big neighbours, passing into
Swedish hands in 1561 and then to Russia
under Peter the Great in 1710. By World War I
and the ensuing brief Estonian independence
(starting 1918) Tallinn's population had reached
150,000. Estonia was eventually occupied by the
Soviet Union in 1940, only to be conquered by
Nazi Germany (1941-44) and then retaken by
the Soviets. In World War II, the city was quite
extensively bombed by the Soviets, although
luckily the medieval town remains. The Soviet
Union undertook a program of massive Slavic
migration, and just over 40% of Tallinn's current
inhabitants are Slavic (compared to an average
of 28% for the entire country). On Aug 20, 1991,
Estonia declared independence and Tallinn
became its capital once again.
>St Olav’s Church
Although the tower
of this church is
impressively tall,
and still dominates
the skyline of old
Tallinn, it is perhaps
hard to believe that
for a time (from
1549-1625 when
the Eiffel Tower was
built) it was, at 159 metres, the tallest building
in the world! It was intended to serve as a
beacon for ships approaching the harbour, but
such height also brought challenges, and the
spire was frequently struck by lightning and the
church consequently burnt down on three of
these occasions (in 1625, 1820 and 1931), each
time to be rebuilt. Today’s version is a little
shorter, just 124 metres, but still impressive.
>Lower Old Town
Viru Gate, is an
entrance to Viru
Street and the
section of town
known as All-Linn
or "Lower Town", as
it's where the
merchants and
artisans of old
Tallinn lived. Today,
Viru is still Tallinn's trendiest shopping street
and the entire All-Linn is the busiest (and most
touristy) bit of Tallinn.
>St Catherines Passage
One of the prettiest
little walkways in
Old Town, the
medieval St.
Catherine’s
passage connects
Vene and
Müürivahe streets.
On the northern
portion of the
passage you can see what's left of St.
Catherine’s Church (hence the passage name)
and various large, ancient tombstones that
used to line the inside of the sanctuary. On the
southern portion of the passage, there are
numerous artisan workshops.
>Raekoda (Town Hall)
On the central square of Raekoja Plats, built in
1371, this stone structure dominates the
square. It now houses the Tallinn City Museum.
>Town Hall Pharmacy
On Town square this is one of the oldest
continuously running pharmacies in Europe. No
one knows exactly when it opened, but records
show that the Raeapteek was already on its
third owner in 1422. In Medieval times patients
could buy mummy juice and burnt bees for
treatment, and healthy folks could even drop in
for a glass of spiced wine. Keeping up with the
times, the pharmacy sells the usual aspirin and
condoms, but part of the shop is also a
museum, displaying old medical instruments
and other curiosities.
>House of the Brotherhood of
Black Heads
This is the only surviving Renaissance building
in Tallinn. The medieval guilds were hugely
important in Tallinn and wielded significant
power. As in Riga, one of the most powerful was
the Brotherhood of Blackheads, whose
members were all young, single merchants and
foreigners (mostly German). This Brotherhood
was founded sometime around 1399 and was
active only in Estonia and Latvia. Their patron
was St. Maurice, a black African moor – hence
the name Black Heads.
>Upper Old Town
According to myth, Toompea hill was built on
top of the grave of legendary Estonian king
Kalev, but more historically, its solid limestone
and the site of the Danish castle that founded
the city in 1219. Toompea was the home of the
Danish aristocracy and relations between the
toffs and the plebs were often inflamed, which
is why it's surrounded by thick walls and there's
a gate tower (1380) guarding the entrance.
There are some great views over the city.
Estonia's Parliament is based in a large pink
building in Upper Old Town opposite the
cathedral.
>Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
A classic onion-domed 19th-century Russian
Orthodox church that has become a tourist
symbol of the city, much to the annoyance of
nationalist types who regard it as a symbol of
oppression. It was almost demolished in 1924
during Estonia's first brief spell of
independence, but the Soviets left it to moulder
and it has been restored to its former glory.
>St Mary's
Cathedral
Also known as
Dome Church. The
oldest church in
mainland Estonia,
originally
established by the
Danes as a Catholic
church in 1229 but renovated and expanded
many times since then, become a Lutheran
church in 1561. It is the only building in
Toompea which survived the 17th-century fire.
>City Wall
A section of the City Wall can be climbed from
the corner of Suur-Kloostri and Väike-Kloostri,
with entry into three towers possible. (The spiral
staircases are steep and somewhat
claustrophobic and the views from up on
Toompea are better.)
Ex-KGB Headquarters
Now the Interior Ministry and not generally
open to the public, this is where the KGB
detained and tortured suspected
dissidents. A Soviet-era joke says that this
was the tallest building in Estonia: even
from the basement, you could see Siberia.
Interrogations were conducted in the
basement and you can see even today how
the windows were crudely bricked up with
concrete to mute the sound.
Were you at the 25th Song & Festival?
The massive panoramic photo captured
the image of most people at the 25th
Song & Festival – 1.79 gigapixel resolution
and 216 degree field of view.
Approximately 10% of all Estonians were
in the photo, which held the world record
in 2009 for being the largest photo ever
taken of moving objects.
Museum of Occupations
The museum describes the life conditions
under Soviet and Nazi regimes.
An ultra modern building alongside an old
historic building in Old Town.