Myohyang

A mountain habitat for 30 endemic plant

species, 16 plant species that are

threatened globally and 12 endangered

animal species.

The Myohyang Mountains are one of five celebrated mountains in Korea known as the “granary of the western coast” of Korea. Mt.Myohyang is named after the mystic shapes and fragrances found in the area. It is a sacred site as, according to legend, it was the home of King Dangon, forefather of the Korean people. The highest peak is Piro Peak at 6,262 ft /1,909m.

International Friendship

Exhibition

The two exhibition halls display gifts of all kinds given to the DPRK ‘Kim family’ leaders by foreign states, leaders and organisations. I was told that the halls, consisting of over 150 rooms, took just one year to build. Completed in 1978. The site was chosen by Kim Il Sung. Each of the 4 sections of the weigh 4 tons. The museum acts as propaganda, giving the impression of worldwide support for the North Korean government. Visitors are informed that the number of gifts constitute "proof of the endless love and respect toward the Great Leader, Kim Il-sung”. At the time of my visit the count showed 116,144 gifts from 188 countries. Nearly 100,000 gifts were given to Kim Jong Il. Many nations continue to give gifts to him and his wife even though they are long since passed away. Over 6,ooo gifts were given in 2018, with about 30% being given to Kim Jong Il. It’s a fascinating look into material culture in the second half of the 20th century with highlights including an aeroplane given by the Soviet Union in 1948 (used twice by the DPRK – only 3 built and the others were given to China and Vietnam), a bullet proof train carriage given by Stalin of the Soviet Union in 1948 and a bullet proof train carriage given by the Chinese in 1953, a bullet proof car weighing 6 tons and with 8cm thick windows, given by Stalin. One of the Chinese gifts is a gold plated large 1:15 scaled model of a temple weighing 3.5 tons. The value of the gifts is unimaginable, in particular those from China and Russia with many exquisite, intricate ivory carvings. Photographs are not allowed inside. At the end of my tour I was asked to write my review which was translated into N. Korean by my guide.

Manphok

Valley

We trekked up the vast number of steps to the top of the waterfalls in the Manphok Valley – approx. 1km up over a height of 600m. The top of the falls is 1600 above sea level. (I was told at the briefing with the guides that it would take 2 hours to go up but we did it in 1hr 20 min, including photo stops). At the briefing the previous evening, my guide Yang Chol Jun tried to talk me out of doing the trek, questioning my age and fitness and giving me examples of people who had started the trek and couldn’t continue. The trek turned out to be a ‘climb’ up to the top of a waterfall. I realised that he was very unfit (and a smoker) and that he was not keen on the climb. He kept saying that he had to do it because I wanted to do it and he had to be my guide.

Pohyon

Buddhist

Temple

Set in peaceful gardens in the Myohyang Mountains, the Buddhist temple, with a 9 storey stone pagoda, dates back to 1042. It was one of the greatest centres of Buddhism in the north of Korea and became a renowned place of pilgrimage. The 7.2 ton bell dates from 1469. Originally the temple had 24 buildings and pagodas. It was burnt in 1951 in the Korean War but later restored. It has a repository of 80.000 print blocks containing the complete collection of Buddhist Scriptures and also the historic text of the Tripitaka Koreana, Buddhist scriptures that were first produced to invoke divine assistance from foreign invasion during the Koryo Dynasty. I was told that the historic texts were printed using the wooden block method and took 16 years to make in the 13th Century and that the book of images dating from 1600 was the winner at a 1959 German Festival. I was not allowed to take photos in this building.

Hyansan Hotel

After a 2 hour drive (115km) to Mount Myohyang, we arrived at Hyansan Hotel. I then had a briefing with my guides. This 6-star hotel (5-stars internationally), built with Stalinist architecture in mind, is known as the country’s best hotel. The hotel was built in 1986 and renovated in 2010. It has a gym, billiards tables, a dance hall, a karaoke room, a swimming pool, a theatre for plays and a luxury SPA with bubble- baths. It has a classy interior with marble and gold. Everything was shiny and looked new but, the hotel was empty of hotel guests. In the large restaurant, there were 2 guests for dinner – each of us sat on a separate large, round table. There were places laid for 9 people for breakfast, but I didn’t see anyone. I was alone in the room for lunch with no other places laid. It was a very surreal experience to be eating alone in a very large dining room. Korean meals comprise of several small dishes. The meals were very rushed with the next dish arriving before I had eaten each course.

Woodblock Print

My guide said that Korea were the first inventors of the wooden block print method. Wikipedia says - The Chinese invention of woodblock printing, at some point before the first dated book in 868 (the Diamond Sutra), produced the world's first print culture. According to A. Hyatt Mayor, curator at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, "it was the Chinese who really discovered the means of communication that was to dominate until our age. Woodblock printing was better suited to Chinese characters than movable type, which the Chinese also invented, but which did not replace woodblock printing.